Backgammon

Backgammon is recorded as one of the oldest games known in the world. It is believed to have originated in Mesopotamia in order to teaches tactics and strategy as a prelude to war.

The Equipment

There are several pieces of equipment needed in order to start the game. First you need a Backgammon board. Then there are thirty round stones also known as checkers, of which there are two sets of fifteen checkers, in two different colours, one light, one dark. These are referred to as “men”. There are two pairs of regular dice, with a two dice cup to shake and throw the dice. Also used is a doubling cube which is a 6-faced die that has the numerals 2, 4, 8, 16, 32 and 64. The doubling cube is used to keep track of the number of units at stake in each game. It is an indication of the last player who doubled.

The Objective

To be able to move all the checkers into the home table which is the inner table nearest to the player and bear them off. Whoever gets to bear them off first wins the game.

The Moves

The game starts by each player rolling a die. Whoever gets the higher number starts first. But if both player rolls the same number, they will have to keep on rolling the die until they get a different number. After determining who plays first, each player then alternately rolls two dice which indicates the number of points in which the checkers will move.

A checker can only be moved to an open point. Meaning, it should not be occupied by two or more checkers of the opponent. The number located on the two dice represents separate moves. So if the number 1 and 6 are rolled, the player may move a checker to a point and another checker six paces to another open point. If the player rolls doubles, he gets to play the number twice. It is a must for a player to use both numbers that were rolled unless there are no available moves to an open point. It is not allowed for a player to not move both numbers. When this occurs, the larger number is played. If this is not possible either, then he loses his turn. But if he rolls a double and all numbers cannot be played, player must try to play as many numbers as possible. The passing of moves is not allowed. Players must try to make as many moves possible each turn because each move is an opportunity to move the checker towards the inner table.

If a point has only one piece of checker, this is called a “blot”. If the opponent lands on this point, then your piece that was there is now captured and moved to the bar (divider of the board). Captured checkers may only re-enter on the furthest available inner table. For example, if the die shows the number, then the checker is moved from the bar to the point 1 of the inner table. If there are one or more checkers on the bar then all other checkers cannot be played until all hit pieces have re-entered.

Bearing Off

Once all of the fifteen checkers have been moved to the home board, “bearing off” begins. A player rolls a die and whatever number comes out corresponds to the point on which the checkers are located which is then removed from the board. If a checker is not found on the indicated point, then a legal move must be made. If there are no checkers on a higher numbered point, then the checker on the highest available point can be removed. Sometimes legal moves are done to protect single checkers on a point so they don’t get captured.

All of the 15 checkers should be located at the home table. If in any case during the bear-off process the checker is hit, bearing off cannot be continued until the “hit” checker goes back to the home board.

The first player to bear off wins the match.

Tips from the Top
Okay- so we’ve gotten all the boring beginner basics out of the way- here comes the stuff you don’t read in books:

After grasping the fundamental mathematics, i.e: which logically is the safest move to make, start to try and develop your own uniquely instinctive play- are you a racer (boring!) or a back player- waiting like a cat for your prey to expose themselves?
Always ruthlessly exploit, without mercy, your opponents’ weaknesses. I don’t have space here to explain the many techniques and variations to the doubling dice, but you must offer it when you, putting yourself in your opponents shoes, would least like to be offered it. A good example of this would be when the game had suddenly taken an unexpected twist and your opponent had thought he had you trapped and you had gotten some lucky dice to escape and were clearly in the lead.
Never count out your checkers. Move them like you know the board backwards- going straight to your intended destination. Intimidate your opponent with your body language at every opportunity.
I like aesthetics- building symmetrical, impregnable walls around my six points either side. Always do this as a matter of policy- your board should look neat as a discipline.
Don’t be afraid to leave yourself exposed at the beginning of a game. If you are having bad dice, be flexible in your strategies and pile up in your opponents’ home to create havoc until you start your own home building.
Get your opening moves right. Not just the obvious ones- 3 and 1, 6 and 1, 6 and 5 and so on- but also the awkward ones- 5 and 2, 6 and 3, etc. Personally, I never pile up on points- it limits my options- I’d rather be hit.
Finally, if you are playing for money and are offered the double- if you don’t think you are not going to win, refuse it. Teach your opponent to be timid with the doubling dice and make him regret not possibly winning a double game.